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The Resource Waves, tides and shallow-water processes, prepared by an Open University course team [by Joan Brown ... et al.]

Waves, tides and shallow-water processes, prepared by an Open University course team [by Joan Brown ... et al.]

Label
Waves, tides and shallow-water processes
Title
Waves, tides and shallow-water processes
Statement of responsibility
prepared by an Open University course team [by Joan Brown ... et al.]
Contributor
Subject
Cataloging source
UkLiU
Index
no index present
Literary form
non fiction
http://library.link/vocab/relatedWorkOrContributorName
  • Brown, Joan Evelyn
  • Open University
Series statement
Open University. Oceanography
Series volume
4
http://library.link/vocab/subjectName
  • Ocean waves
  • Tides
  • Oceanography
Label
Waves, tides and shallow-water processes, prepared by an Open University course team [by Joan Brown ... et al.]
Instantiates
Publication
Note
  • Reprint, with corrections, of edition originally published 1989
  • To accompany the Open University third-level course, S330 Oceanography
Bibliography note
Includes bibliographical references and index
Contents
  • About This Volume.
  • p. 8
  • About This Series.
  • p. 9
  • Chapter 1.
  • Waves
  • 1.1.
  • What Are Waves?.
  • p. 12
  • 1.1.1.
  • Types of waves.
  • p. 12
  • 1.1.2.
  • Wind-generated waves in the ocean.
  • p. 14
  • 1.1.3.
  • fully developed sea.
  • p. 16
  • 1.1.4.
  • Wave height and wave steepness.
  • p. 17
  • 1.2.
  • Surface Wave Theory.
  • p. 18
  • 1.2.1.
  • Motion of water particles.
  • p. 20
  • 1.2.2.
  • Wave speed.
  • p. 22
  • 1.2.3.
  • Wave speed in deep and in shallow water.
  • p. 22
  • 1.2.4.
  • Assumptions made in surface wave theory.
  • p. 24
  • 1.3.
  • Wave Dispersion and Group Speed.
  • p. 24
  • 1.4.
  • Wave Energy.
  • p. 26
  • 1.4.1.
  • Propagation of wave energy.
  • p. 27
  • 1.4.2.
  • Attenuation of wave energy.
  • p. 27
  • 1.4.3.
  • Swell.
  • p. 28
  • 1.4.4.
  • Uses of wave energy.
  • p. 30
  • 1.5.
  • Waves Approaching the Shore.
  • p. 31
  • 1.5.1.
  • Wave refraction.
  • p. 32
  • 1.5.2.
  • Waves breaking upon the shore.
  • p. 35
  • 1.6.
  • Waves of Unusual Character.
  • p. 38
  • 1.6.1.
  • Waves and currents.
  • p. 38
  • 1.6.2.
  • Giant waves.
  • p. 40
  • 1.6.3.
  • Tsunamis.
  • p. 41
  • 1.6.4.
  • Seiches.
  • p. 41
  • 1.7.
  • Measurement of Waves.
  • p. 44
  • 1.7.1.
  • Satellite observations of waves.
  • p. 44
  • 1.8.
  • Summary of Chapter 1.
  • p. 47
  • Chapter 2.
  • Tides
  • 2.1.
  • Tide-Producing Forces - The Earth-Moon System.
  • p. 52
  • 2.1.1.
  • Variations in the lunar-induced tides.
  • p. 59
  • 2.2.
  • Tide-Producing Forces - The Earth-Sun System.
  • p. 62
  • 2.2.1.
  • Interaction of solar and lunar tides.
  • p. 63
  • 2.3.
  • Dynamic Theory of Tides.
  • p. 66
  • 2.3.1.
  • Prediction of tides by the harmonic method.
  • p. 70
  • 2.4.
  • Real Tides.
  • p. 72
  • 2.4.1.
  • Tides and tidal currents in shallow seas.
  • p. 75
  • 2.4.2.
  • Storm surges.
  • p. 81
  • 2.4.3.
  • Tides in rivers and estuaries.
  • p. 82
  • 2.4.4.
  • Tidal power.
  • p. 83
  • 2.5.
  • Summary of Chapter 2.
  • p. 85
  • Chapter 3.
  • Introduction to Shallow-Water Environments and Their Sediments
  • 3.1.
  • Sediments of Shallow-Water Environments.
  • p. 87
  • 3.1.1.
  • supply of sediments to shelf seas and oceans.
  • p. 91
  • 3.1.2.
  • Variations in supply and distribution of sediments over time.
  • p. 92
  • 3.2.
  • Summary of Chapter 3.
  • p. 95
  • Chapter 4.
  • Principles and Processes of Sediment Transport
  • 4.1.
  • Factors Controlling the Movement of Sediment.
  • p. 96
  • 4.1.1.
  • Frictional forces and the boundary layer.
  • p. 97
  • 4.1.2.
  • Cohesive and non-cohesive sediments.
  • p. 99
  • 4.2.
  • Sediment Erosion, Transport and Deposition.
  • p. 100
  • 4.2.1.
  • Erosion of cohesive sediments and yield strength.
  • p. 101
  • 4.2.2.
  • concept of shear velocity.
  • p. 103
  • 4.2.3.
  • viscous sublayer.
  • p. 107
  • 4.2.4.
  • Velocity profiles in the sea.
  • p. 110
  • 4.2.5.
  • Shear velocity and the behaviour of non-cohesive sediments.
  • p. 111
  • 4.2.6.
  • Rates of sediment transport.
  • p. 112
  • 4.3.
  • Deposition of Sediment.
  • p. 117
  • 4.3.1.
  • Deposition of the bedload.
  • p. 117
  • 4.3.2.
  • Deposition of the suspended load.
  • p. 117
  • 4.4.
  • Bed Forms.
  • p. 118
  • 4.5.
  • Summary of Chapter 4.
  • p. 123
  • Chapter 5.
  • Beaches
  • 5.1.
  • Morphology of Beaches.
  • p. 126
  • 5.1.1.
  • Beach profiles in relation to grain size and wave steepness.
  • p. 130
  • 5.2.
  • Sediment Movement in the Beach Zone.
  • p. 133
  • 5.2.1.
  • Orbital velocities and bed shear stress.
  • p. 133
  • 5.2.2.
  • Sediment movement by waves.
  • p. 134
  • 5.2.3.
  • Longshore sediment transport by wave-generated currents.
  • p. 138
  • 5.2.4.
  • Rip currents.
  • p. 141
  • 5.3.
  • Dynamic Equilibrium of Sediment Supply and Removal.
  • p. 142
  • 5.4.
  • Summary of Chapter 5.
  • p. 147
  • Chapter 6.
  • Estuaries
  • 6.1.
  • Sediment Distribution in Estuaries.
  • p. 150
  • 6.1.1.
  • Aggregation of sediment in estuaries.
  • p. 154
  • 6.2.
  • Tidal Channels of Estuaries.
  • p. 155
  • 6.2.1.
  • estuarine continuum.
  • p. 155
  • 6.2.2.
  • Regions of freshwater influence.
  • p. 160
  • 6.2.3.
  • Sedimentation in estuaries.
  • p. 162
  • 6.2.4.
  • Estuaries in low latitudes.
  • p. 166
  • 6.2.5.
  • dynamic balance of estuaries.
  • p. 167
  • 6.3.
  • Lagoons, Tidal Flats and Barrier Islands.
  • p. 169
  • 6.4.
  • Summary of Chapter 6.
  • p. 173
  • Chapter 7.
  • Deltas
  • 7.1.
  • Delta Morphology.
  • p. 180
  • 7.2.
  • Mixing and Sediment Deposition at Distributary Mouths.
  • p. 182
  • 7.2.1.
  • deltaic continuum.
  • p. 182
  • 7.3.
  • Effects of Human Activities on Deltas.
  • p. 187
  • 7.4.
  • Summary of Chapter 7.
  • p. 188
  • Chapter 8.
  • Shelf Seas
  • 8.1.
  • Shelf Sea Processes.
  • p. 191
  • 8.1.1.
  • Coastal and ocean currents.
  • p. 192
  • 8.1.2.
  • effects of waves and of bioturbation.
  • p. 193
  • 8.2.
  • Sediment Transport and Deposition in Some Shelf Seas.
  • p. 194
  • 8.3.
  • Shelf Sea System From Shore to Shelf Break.
  • p. 199
  • 8.4.
  • Summary of Chapter 8.
  • p. 201
  • Suggested Further Reading.
  • p. 203
  • Answers and Comments to Questions.
  • p. 204
  • Acknowledgments.
  • p. 222
  • Index.
  • p. 224
Dimensions
25 cm.
Edition
Corrected reprint
Extent
187 p.
Isbn
9780080363714
Other physical details
ill. (some col.)
Label
Waves, tides and shallow-water processes, prepared by an Open University course team [by Joan Brown ... et al.]
Publication
Note
  • Reprint, with corrections, of edition originally published 1989
  • To accompany the Open University third-level course, S330 Oceanography
Bibliography note
Includes bibliographical references and index
Contents
  • About This Volume.
  • p. 8
  • About This Series.
  • p. 9
  • Chapter 1.
  • Waves
  • 1.1.
  • What Are Waves?.
  • p. 12
  • 1.1.1.
  • Types of waves.
  • p. 12
  • 1.1.2.
  • Wind-generated waves in the ocean.
  • p. 14
  • 1.1.3.
  • fully developed sea.
  • p. 16
  • 1.1.4.
  • Wave height and wave steepness.
  • p. 17
  • 1.2.
  • Surface Wave Theory.
  • p. 18
  • 1.2.1.
  • Motion of water particles.
  • p. 20
  • 1.2.2.
  • Wave speed.
  • p. 22
  • 1.2.3.
  • Wave speed in deep and in shallow water.
  • p. 22
  • 1.2.4.
  • Assumptions made in surface wave theory.
  • p. 24
  • 1.3.
  • Wave Dispersion and Group Speed.
  • p. 24
  • 1.4.
  • Wave Energy.
  • p. 26
  • 1.4.1.
  • Propagation of wave energy.
  • p. 27
  • 1.4.2.
  • Attenuation of wave energy.
  • p. 27
  • 1.4.3.
  • Swell.
  • p. 28
  • 1.4.4.
  • Uses of wave energy.
  • p. 30
  • 1.5.
  • Waves Approaching the Shore.
  • p. 31
  • 1.5.1.
  • Wave refraction.
  • p. 32
  • 1.5.2.
  • Waves breaking upon the shore.
  • p. 35
  • 1.6.
  • Waves of Unusual Character.
  • p. 38
  • 1.6.1.
  • Waves and currents.
  • p. 38
  • 1.6.2.
  • Giant waves.
  • p. 40
  • 1.6.3.
  • Tsunamis.
  • p. 41
  • 1.6.4.
  • Seiches.
  • p. 41
  • 1.7.
  • Measurement of Waves.
  • p. 44
  • 1.7.1.
  • Satellite observations of waves.
  • p. 44
  • 1.8.
  • Summary of Chapter 1.
  • p. 47
  • Chapter 2.
  • Tides
  • 2.1.
  • Tide-Producing Forces - The Earth-Moon System.
  • p. 52
  • 2.1.1.
  • Variations in the lunar-induced tides.
  • p. 59
  • 2.2.
  • Tide-Producing Forces - The Earth-Sun System.
  • p. 62
  • 2.2.1.
  • Interaction of solar and lunar tides.
  • p. 63
  • 2.3.
  • Dynamic Theory of Tides.
  • p. 66
  • 2.3.1.
  • Prediction of tides by the harmonic method.
  • p. 70
  • 2.4.
  • Real Tides.
  • p. 72
  • 2.4.1.
  • Tides and tidal currents in shallow seas.
  • p. 75
  • 2.4.2.
  • Storm surges.
  • p. 81
  • 2.4.3.
  • Tides in rivers and estuaries.
  • p. 82
  • 2.4.4.
  • Tidal power.
  • p. 83
  • 2.5.
  • Summary of Chapter 2.
  • p. 85
  • Chapter 3.
  • Introduction to Shallow-Water Environments and Their Sediments
  • 3.1.
  • Sediments of Shallow-Water Environments.
  • p. 87
  • 3.1.1.
  • supply of sediments to shelf seas and oceans.
  • p. 91
  • 3.1.2.
  • Variations in supply and distribution of sediments over time.
  • p. 92
  • 3.2.
  • Summary of Chapter 3.
  • p. 95
  • Chapter 4.
  • Principles and Processes of Sediment Transport
  • 4.1.
  • Factors Controlling the Movement of Sediment.
  • p. 96
  • 4.1.1.
  • Frictional forces and the boundary layer.
  • p. 97
  • 4.1.2.
  • Cohesive and non-cohesive sediments.
  • p. 99
  • 4.2.
  • Sediment Erosion, Transport and Deposition.
  • p. 100
  • 4.2.1.
  • Erosion of cohesive sediments and yield strength.
  • p. 101
  • 4.2.2.
  • concept of shear velocity.
  • p. 103
  • 4.2.3.
  • viscous sublayer.
  • p. 107
  • 4.2.4.
  • Velocity profiles in the sea.
  • p. 110
  • 4.2.5.
  • Shear velocity and the behaviour of non-cohesive sediments.
  • p. 111
  • 4.2.6.
  • Rates of sediment transport.
  • p. 112
  • 4.3.
  • Deposition of Sediment.
  • p. 117
  • 4.3.1.
  • Deposition of the bedload.
  • p. 117
  • 4.3.2.
  • Deposition of the suspended load.
  • p. 117
  • 4.4.
  • Bed Forms.
  • p. 118
  • 4.5.
  • Summary of Chapter 4.
  • p. 123
  • Chapter 5.
  • Beaches
  • 5.1.
  • Morphology of Beaches.
  • p. 126
  • 5.1.1.
  • Beach profiles in relation to grain size and wave steepness.
  • p. 130
  • 5.2.
  • Sediment Movement in the Beach Zone.
  • p. 133
  • 5.2.1.
  • Orbital velocities and bed shear stress.
  • p. 133
  • 5.2.2.
  • Sediment movement by waves.
  • p. 134
  • 5.2.3.
  • Longshore sediment transport by wave-generated currents.
  • p. 138
  • 5.2.4.
  • Rip currents.
  • p. 141
  • 5.3.
  • Dynamic Equilibrium of Sediment Supply and Removal.
  • p. 142
  • 5.4.
  • Summary of Chapter 5.
  • p. 147
  • Chapter 6.
  • Estuaries
  • 6.1.
  • Sediment Distribution in Estuaries.
  • p. 150
  • 6.1.1.
  • Aggregation of sediment in estuaries.
  • p. 154
  • 6.2.
  • Tidal Channels of Estuaries.
  • p. 155
  • 6.2.1.
  • estuarine continuum.
  • p. 155
  • 6.2.2.
  • Regions of freshwater influence.
  • p. 160
  • 6.2.3.
  • Sedimentation in estuaries.
  • p. 162
  • 6.2.4.
  • Estuaries in low latitudes.
  • p. 166
  • 6.2.5.
  • dynamic balance of estuaries.
  • p. 167
  • 6.3.
  • Lagoons, Tidal Flats and Barrier Islands.
  • p. 169
  • 6.4.
  • Summary of Chapter 6.
  • p. 173
  • Chapter 7.
  • Deltas
  • 7.1.
  • Delta Morphology.
  • p. 180
  • 7.2.
  • Mixing and Sediment Deposition at Distributary Mouths.
  • p. 182
  • 7.2.1.
  • deltaic continuum.
  • p. 182
  • 7.3.
  • Effects of Human Activities on Deltas.
  • p. 187
  • 7.4.
  • Summary of Chapter 7.
  • p. 188
  • Chapter 8.
  • Shelf Seas
  • 8.1.
  • Shelf Sea Processes.
  • p. 191
  • 8.1.1.
  • Coastal and ocean currents.
  • p. 192
  • 8.1.2.
  • effects of waves and of bioturbation.
  • p. 193
  • 8.2.
  • Sediment Transport and Deposition in Some Shelf Seas.
  • p. 194
  • 8.3.
  • Shelf Sea System From Shore to Shelf Break.
  • p. 199
  • 8.4.
  • Summary of Chapter 8.
  • p. 201
  • Suggested Further Reading.
  • p. 203
  • Answers and Comments to Questions.
  • p. 204
  • Acknowledgments.
  • p. 222
  • Index.
  • p. 224
Dimensions
25 cm.
Edition
Corrected reprint
Extent
187 p.
Isbn
9780080363714
Other physical details
ill. (some col.)

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      Liverpool, GB
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